Preparing skis for classic skiing. How to prepare skis for skiing or competitions? Skating skis preparation

Ski preparation is a science in itself, which requires taking into account a number of factors and variables. The weather, the quality of the coating, and the material used to make the ski are taken into account. Beginners often prepare equipment on their own, so they must take into account a number of points personally. It requires quite a bit of skill, but many consider it to be more advanced than skating.

Before preparing for a classic move, you should take into account its features.

The classic move is considered more accessible to beginners. It requires less effort, but does not allow you to achieve the same speeds as a skate stroke. Skate is more difficult technically and physically and cannot be used always. Everything will depend on the distance.

Despite the relative simplicity of the classic move, you will also have to diligently prepare your equipment, otherwise the race will not bring results. The same steps will be required, including processing, cleaning, lubrication, and applying various ointments.

The procedure for preparing classic skis

Preparation varies. The number of “steps” of training will depend on financial capabilities, model, and the availability of certain tools. There is no exact preparation plan. You should be guided by your personal feelings when driving, and they are individual. The type of ointments and treatments chosen depends on this.

For beginners, there is no point in purchasing expensive drugs; it will be enough to buy an inexpensive domestic or imported kit.

The order will be as follows:

• The surface is being prepared. Old coatings are removed and the surface is polished.
• Ointments are applied depending on weather conditions and purpose.

The professional approach requires more steps, but at the initial stage it will be enough to understand the basics. At first, you will need tools: a scraper and a special “iron”.

Preparing the sliding surface

First you need to prepare the surface for the appropriate ointments. If the equipment is new, then you won’t have to prepare anything special. If the equipment has been used previously, you must first clean the surface.

Surface cleaning

Cleaning can be done in two ways. The first is called hot and includes several stages:

• Treat with a bronze brush to remove old dirty grease.
• It is applied and immediately removed with a scraper.
• Next, the ski is cooled to ambient temperature.
• The surface is rubbed with a nylon brush, without pressure.
• Paraffin is applied and smoothed with an iron.

In this condition, inventory can be stored between uses, including during transportation.

Old grease can be removed using a special remover. It is applied to the surface, brushed and then allowed to dry. Afterwards the surface is treated first with a steel brush, then with a nylon brush. Next, you need to apply new lubricants or treat the surface using a hot method.

Surface preparation

The surface is prepared in different ways, it all depends on the purpose. If long-term storage is planned, for example, at the end of the ski season, then cleaning should be done using the hot method. If there is a competition ahead, then lubricant should be applied depending on the weather, distance and other factors.

Classic ski lubrication

Lubrication for a classic stroke, especially if they are used by non-professionals, will not be much different from preparation for a skating stroke. The difference will be in the ointments used.

In some cases, it is impossible to predict which stroke will be used throughout the course. You have to use a combination, that is, combine different methods.

Improving ski glide

You can improve your glide in various ways. Firstly, you need to choose the right equipment - in one case, plastic (or, for example, carbon) will be appropriate, in another - wooden.

Another option is to use the right ointments and accelerators, which will be selected for specific conditions.

Application of accelerators

Accelerators are the same ointments that can be in the form of emulsions or in solid form (powder or “tablet”). The choice of one type or another is a matter of price and preference.

Application of fluorocarbon powders

The so-called “solid ointments” should be applied in the following order:

• The application surface is treated with sandpaper.
• The equipment is treated with primer powder.
• The primer ointment is heated with an iron to a temperature of ninety degrees.
• After cooling, rub with ointment.
• Rubber is used to ensure even application.

After this, the skis need to be taken outside so that they cool down to ambient temperature.

Application of emulsions

Emulsions are applied in this way:

• Primer emulsion is applied.
• Heats up with an iron.
• After cooling, the desired emulsion is applied in an even layer.
• The equipment is taken outside to cool down to operating temperature.

The choice of lubricant type depends on the athlete, his preferences and financial capabilities.

• At the initial stage, there is no point in purchasing expensive lubricants; it is better to pay attention to new equipment.
• The emulsion is applied in a thick layer, but it should not be too wide.
• Before storage, skis are cleaned and paraffin is applied.
• Sometimes it is effective to use a combination lubricant, depending on the conditions.

It is worth paying attention to the selection of the right lubricant; this will significantly affect the final result.

Preparing a move will be little different from preparing for a skating move. Professional athletes have special people do their training, but amateurs or beginners should be guided by their own skills and feelings.

1. TOOLS

1.1. Lubrication and processing table

First of all, to lubricate and process skis, we need a table of a convenient height, equipped with the necessary devices for work (electrical sockets, additional lighting, etc.). Tables can be either homemade or manufactured by other companies (for example, "SWIX"), stationary or portable, with a wide variety of designs and their modifications.

1.2. Profile machine for preparing skis

A machine is a device on which you can attach a ski so that it has support along its entire length. Machines can be, just like tables, homemade or “branded” (FISCHER, ATOMIC, etc.). They can be very different in design (solid, collapsible, variable length, etc.). Usually they are attached to the table with clamps or have independent “legs”. The last option is intended for work in “field” conditions.

TIP: if you have the opportunity to buy a “branded” table and machine, that’s good. If this is not possible, do not be discouraged. I am convinced from my own experience that our craftsmen make these devices sometimes no worse, and sometimes even better than well-known foreign companies. The main requirement for all designs is ease of approach to the table (machine) and rigidity of the ski fixation.

There are two types: conventional (for manual processing) and rotating (for mechanical processing using an electric drill).

For manual processing, several types of brushes are used:

• metal (brass, bronze, steel);
• nylon (hard, medium, soft);
• natural (usually from horsehair);
• combined (brass-nylon, bronze-nylon, brass-natural, natural-nylon);
• polishing (in the form of natural cork or a block with flannel).

For mechanical processing (in this case, electric or cordless drills are used as a drive), rotating brushes are used. They are placed on a special axis, one side of which serves as a handle for holding, and the other is mounted in a drill chuck (like a drill).

Rotating brushes are similar in “bristle” materials to the above-mentioned brushes for manual processing. In principle, I could easily name at least several dozen varieties of brushes, but this hardly makes sense. It is probably more important to understand what basic classes they are divided into, and for what purposes each specific type of brush is used.

• METAL BRUSHES (except steel) are mainly used to clean the sliding surface and microstructure from old paraffin and dirt.
• STEEL BRUSHES are usually used not so much for removing paraffin, but for applying a fine microstructure to the sliding surface (depending on weather conditions).
• NYLON BRUSHES come in hard, medium and soft. Hard ones are used to remove harder (frost) paraffin, medium ones - to remove soft ones (intended for transitional and warm weather). Soft brushes are used for final polishing of sliding surfaces.
• NATURAL BRUSHES are used to remove soft paraffin and to treat surfaces after applying powders and accelerators to them.
• POLISHING BRUSHES are used for the dry (without using an iron) method of applying compressed and regular (loose) powders.

TIP: It will be better if you use one specific brush for each type of powder. In other words, you should not treat plus and frost powder with the same brush.

1.4. Fiber porous fabric (fibertex)

Fibertex is a non-woven nylon fiber with or without abrasive microparticles.

• HARD FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE is used to remove fluff after scraping the sliding surface.
• SOFT FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE - for removing the top very thin layer of the surface (in fact, a kind of smoothing) without changing the structure of the ski.
• FIBERTEX WITHOUT ABRASIVE is used for polishing sliding surfaces.

1.5. Cycles, scrapersMetal cycles are produced by various companies (TOKO, SWIX, etc.) or made to order from special grades of steel. For example, I have been using homemade cycles produced by a Ural craftsman for many years now - I would not exchange them for any branded ones. I don’t specifically mention the name of this person, otherwise, I’m afraid he will be tormented with orders later. Every year in the spring I hand over to him a fairly worn-out cycle, and he gives me new ones. I would like to take this opportunity to thank him on behalf of our entire team.
The soft metal makes it possible to sharpen cycles under normal, “field” conditions using special sharpening tools. Hard metal requires sharpening of scrapers only in the factory.

TIP: for initial processing, use cycles made of a harder metal, which allows you to remove a fairly large layer of plastic in one pass, and for finishing, use a softer one.
The main purpose of thermal devices is to heat paraffins and ointments. Electric irons, heated irons, gas burners, and hair dryers are usually used. Preference is given to devices that do not use open flames and that can maintain a constant, controlled temperature for a long time.

Of all existing thermal devices, the most used are:

• ELECTRIC IRONS - for melting paraffins and powders.
• HAIR DRYERS - for melting the holding ointment applied under the ski block. If you use an iron for this purpose, you will only achieve that the ointment will “run” into the groove and onto the sides of the ski. Hair dryers, unlike irons, are much more suitable for melting ointment, since they allow it to be heated evenly.
• GAS BURNERS - usually used in “field” conditions, where there is no access to the electrical network.

TIP: Remember that electric heaters are always preferable to gas burners because they do not have an open flame. Use burners only if you cannot use an iron or hair dryer.

1.7. Devices for applying structures, cutting

The purpose of the cuts or "steinslift" is to reduce the phenomenon of "suction" that occurs between the sliding surface of the ski and the ski track. The influence of this phenomenon on the final result increases both with increasing air humidity and with increasing speed of movement. The structure and moisture content of the snow are decisive when choosing cuts. So, for example, freshly fallen, fine-grained snow implies a shallower (in depth) structure, and old, granular snow - a thicker, deeper structure. The style of movement also affects the choice of cuts. The ridge style is characterized by sparser and deeper grooves. In general, the structure for each specific weather is determined by testing directly according to the weather and snow conditions in this particular place on the day of the competition. But we can still give some general recommendations based on practical experience:

• 0.33 mm - 0.5 mm - frosty weather, freshly fallen snow;
• 0.7 mm - 1.0 mm - wet coarse-grained snow, hard glossy ski track;
• 2.0 mm - new wet snow, shiny ski track;
• 3.0 mm - 4.0 mm - light frost, wet frosty weather conditions (the effect of this cutting can be improved if it is used in conjunction with cutting with a pitch of 0.33 mm - 0.5 mm).

In general, the following trend is visible: warmer weather requires cutting at a sparser pace.

• HAND CUTTING AND KNURLING. The structure and cutting are applied to the ski by hand using special knurls. Knurling can be with rotating or fixed stationary cutters (knives). In addition, they can be with replaceable or standard (in the form of metal plates) cutters (knives). In addition, they are divided into structure cutting and extruding. It is clear that extruding ones are more gentle on plastic compared to cutting ones.
• STEINSLIFT is a technology in which, in a factory, the ski is processed on special machines using emery stones. Such grinding of sliding surfaces and applying a certain structure (stein sand) to it can significantly improve the sliding properties of skis for the weather conditions for which they are intended. It should be noted here that various types of matte sanding can slightly shift the suitability of skis for certain weather conditions in the desired direction. That is, skis designed for warmth can be adapted to slightly cooler weather or, on the contrary, to outright “water” using a certain pattern. However, always remember: good skis suitable for wet snow and warm weather cannot be made into good skis for cold weather - we are talking only about a slight change in the use of a particular pair of skis in the direction of warmth or cold. The same kind of “shift” in the range of use of a particular pair of skis in one direction or another (for heat or cold) can be achieved if you manually remove part of the plastic from the metal frame and apply the necessary structure (more on this below).

The disadvantage of stone grinding is that during this procedure quite a lot of plastic is removed from the sliding surface of the ski - 0.1 - 0.3 mm. It is clear that this procedure should not be abused, otherwise in half a season you can remove all the sliding plastic from the ski. As a result of scraping (factory or manual), the priming of the sliding surface of the ski becomes insufficient. After stone grinding or sanding, it is necessary to repeatedly prime the skis with appropriate processing.

1.8. Sanding paper

Waterproof sanding paper with various grits: 240, 220,180,150,120,100, 80, 60 is used for sanding, removing lint and raising lint to improve the adhesion of the holding ointment to the sliding surface of the ski in the most difficult weather conditions.

In addition to the main working tools listed, a huge number of other various devices are used when preparing skis:

• sharpening for metal and plastic cycles and scrapers;
• sharpening for ski edges;
• plastic for repairing the sliding surface of skis;
• vices, clamps;
• natural and synthetic plugs for leveling holding ointments.

2. HOW TO PREPARE SKIS?

Before you start working with skis, you need to familiarize yourself with certain safety rules. They are simple:

1. Ventilate the room before and during work.
2. Use a respirator with a filter to trap dust and harmful gases.
3. When preparing skis, do not use open fire.
4. No smoking.
5. Do not clean your hands with hand wash.

There was a case in our team: when powders first appeared, we prepared skis in a room where a lit blowtorch stood for some time. After this, all four people in the room were seriously ill for several days: all the symptoms of severe poisoning were evident - vomiting, nausea, terrible weakness. This state lasted for several days. So my advice to you: there should be no open fire (including burning cigarettes) in the room where you prepare your skis. I noticed that skiers from Scandinavian countries, wherever they come to compete, first of all install a powerful exhaust hood in the room where they are preparing skis. Try to adopt this practice.

The preparation of skate and classic skis differs only in that skis intended for the classic style have a special area under the loading area (block), onto which ointment is applied. Preparing skis for gliding - whether for skate skis or classic skis - is the same. Skis are subjected to the following stages of processing:

1. Ski scraping.
2. Preparing skis for priming.
3. Ski priming (before applying weather-appropriate base wax).
4. Priming skis with basic wax, appropriate for the weather.
5. Application of weather-appropriate base wax.
6. Application of powder, accelerator.

The first operation is used only a few times a year. The second and third are typical for the preparation of new skis, as well as for skis that have again undergone factory (stein sanding) or manual (metal scraping) processing. The fourth, fifth and sixth operations are performed every time you start preparing your skis.

2.1. Ski scraping

During training and competition, the sliding plastic of your skis experiences mechanical and temperature impacts and, naturally, ages.

There are two ways to update (scrape) the sliding surface of skis:

• factory (steinslift);
• manual.

TIP: during the season, skis must undergo factory or manual processing at least twice: at the beginning of winter and about two weeks before the main start (we are talking about scraping skis with a hard scraper or a stein sander). Why two weeks before the main start, and not two or three days? Because experience shows that skis exhibit better gliding qualities after repeated impregnation with paraffin and proper running-in (and this takes time).

2.1.1. What should the cycle be?

The main criterion is that the cycle must be comfortable for you personally, it must fit comfortably in your hands. Some people make massive cycles, such that they can be comfortably held with both hands, while others do very small ones. The cycle moves in the direction of the ski from toe to heel and should move smoothly, without encountering any obstacles. After the first one or two passes, you will immediately see where your skis have scratches, pits, bumps, etc., as the old (whitish) plastic will be peeled off on a flat surface, revealing fresh black plastic. An uneven surface will show both bumps (the old plastic will stick on them) and depressions (where it will remain whitish).

You can move along the ski in different ways: you can walk along the ski and move the wheel in front of you, or you can back away along the ski, and then the wheel will move as if following you. The main thing is that the cycle moves smoothly along the ski, does not jump or jump to the side.

How to repair large scratches and other serious damage on a ski? For this purpose, there is a special repair plastic, which, like skis, is divided according to its purpose into positive and frosty. Can be of different structures and colors. How to use it? We clean the damaged area from dirt, lightly scrape it with a metal scraper and degrease it. Then, using a blowtorch or gas torch, we fuse the plastic onto the damaged area. Fusing should be done only in small layers, remembering that the next layer can be applied only after the previous one has hardened. After hardening, excess plastic is removed from the sliding surface using a metal scraper. Then the sliding surface is polished and primed with paraffin.

2.1.2. Which layer of plastic should I remove when scraping?

When manually processing skis, it is necessary to cycle the sliding surface of the metal scraper until, if possible, all its defects are removed (irregularities, cavities, scratch marks, etc.). The surface should be scraped using a sharp, non-rounded metal scraper using repeated light movements with slight pressure. A dull metal scraper or too much pressure leads to “burning” of the plastic of the sliding surface (this can be determined by the characteristic pattern for this).

In general, strictly speaking, no literal burnout occurs in this case. And this is what happens. Today, most of the world's leading companies - "FISCHER", "ATOMIC", "ROSSIGNOL" and others - use graphite-containing Teflon for the sliding surface of skis. What does it look like when you look at it at high magnification? Roughly speaking, these are numerous particles of graphite that are embedded in plastic. It is these particles that provide modern skis with good glide. However, these graphite particles are much harder than the plastic itself. If you use a sharp scraper and cycle the ski, applying slight pressure on it, you seem to cut off these microparticles from the sliding surface of the ski in an even layer. If you use a dull scraper or press too hard on the ski when scraping, you simply pick out these particles from the plastic, and the same pattern appears on the ski, which in common parlance we call “burnout.”

TIP: Make sure your cycles are always sharp.

The second very important point when scraping is the angle of inclination of the scraper relative to the ski. In no case should the scraper be positioned at a right angle to the ski when scraping. The deviation from the right angle should be 20 - 40 degrees, and the more uneven the surface of the ski, the larger this angle should be. Otherwise, if you cycle the ski, placing the cycle at a right angle, you will only aggravate all the irregularities, causing a “wave”. At the same time, remember that with each new pass, either the left or the right edge of the cycle must go forward (otherwise, if you do not do this, you can catch an oblique wave). And only the very last pass is made at a right angle.

TIP: if this is your first time trying to scrape skis, you will almost certainly get into trouble. Therefore, under no circumstances start with scraping your cross-country skis - it is better to start with old training skis. But even in this case, you have a long path of mistakes and discoveries of the Americas ahead of you. The best option is to find a person who has been doing this for a long time and more or less professionally. It is enough to observe its work once, and you will be able to avoid many mistakes of the first stage.

Experience shows that even after sanding, some pairs of skis have a not very smooth, seemingly bumpy surface. The following danger may await you here: when trying to melt the powder onto such skis, you suddenly notice that in some places the powder adheres well to the ski, but in others it does not. When you try to melt the powder in those places where you couldn’t do it the first time, you only achieve the effect that the iron on the bumps sticks to the ski, and the plastic in these places is burned out. According to my observations, it can be much more difficult to cycle burnt plastic than regular plastic.

If burnt bumps appear on your skis and it’s difficult to remove them, you can fix the problem as follows: take a fairly long block (approximately 15-20 centimeters), wrap it in sandpaper and work hard on the sliding surface (this applies, by the way, not only to burnt bumps). skis, but in general any skis that have such large irregularities that cycles cannot be corrected). And after processing with a block of sandpaper, having achieved a smooth surface, the skis should be carefully cycled.

OBSERVATION: good work with a block of sandpaper and subsequent careful sanding can restore life to sometimes even completely “dead” skis.

After each scraping, it is advisable to process the edges. With one or two movements at an angle of 45%, we remove the chamfer with fine sandpaper, removing excessive edge sharpness, burrs, etc. Do not overdo it - we are talking about two or three movements. But the chamfer must always be removed. Even if you can’t see the burrs with your eyes, believe me, they are there, and it’s better to remove them, since they (especially when skating) will slow down the movement.

2.2. Preparing skis for priming

Before you begin preparing new skis, you need to determine how the sliding surface is processed. Skis processed by the factory grinding method require light manual scraping (a sharp metal scraper), which removes only the fluff, but not the plastic (i.e., without erasing the pattern - the sandpaper on the sliding surface). If there was no factory grinding, then it is necessary to check the condition of the sliding surface, removing defects. This is done by removing a thin layer of the surface of the metal cycle, which alternates with impregnation with paraffin (soak generously in paraffin, then cycle - repeat this procedure several times). Then we clean the skis from any remaining paraffin using a brass brush and hard fibertex.

2.3. Ski priming

After scraping the ski with a metal scraper, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the sliding surface with a brass or bronze brush and hard fibertex, and then apply primer paraffin (special primer or any more or less soft one with a range of application - 3-10 degrees. Usually purple is used). In this case, it is advisable to use paraffin in excess, warming the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin to the extent that it is absorbed into the surface.

Cool the skis. After 20-30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times, thoroughly cleaning it with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer we should create a shiny layer on the surface.
If the weather conditions require that the skis have structure and the skis do not have a factory bolt, the appropriate threading must be done by hand. The structure is always applied before the main wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in the last hour before the start the temperature and humidity change sharply. In this case, the cutting must be applied after the main paraffin.

2.4. Priming skis for appropriate weather

When priming the sliding surface under the base paraffin, remember:

1. The melting point of the paraffin used for priming must be higher than the melting point of the base paraffin, i.e. the primer paraffin should be more refractory (in this case, the main paraffin does not mix with the primer). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory, solid paraffin is used as the main paraffin and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main paraffin.
2. With very old, hard, “aggressive” snow, if the weather remains the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and simply to remove electrostatic stress from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use “antistatic” paraffin (for example, “START” -antistatic or "REX" -antistatic, art 433, etc.)
3. When priming skis in appropriate weather, you should use regular paraffin for regular paraffin, and fluoride for fluorine-containing paraffin.

The primer is made in the usual way, using an iron with a normal melting temperature for a given paraffin (as a rule, this is a temperature of 120 degrees. To get this temperature at the “sole” of the iron, the thermostat must be set to +150 degrees). Apply paraffin to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin block on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of molten hot paraffin.

OBSERVATION: it is not always possible (primarily financial) to pour paraffin onto your ski like a river. I noticed that many ski enthusiasts use the following method: with a short, quick movement, a paraffin tile is melted on an iron and with the same quick movement, this tile (while there is molten paraffin on it) is rubbed on a section of the ski. The procedure is repeated several times until the entire ski is covered with paraffin. The paraffin is then melted onto the ski using an iron as usual. This method is not bad and has a right to life. In any case, you will be able to achieve significant savings in paraffin.

Cool, then remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and carefully treat the surface with a nylon brush.

TIP: it is better to prime graphite-containing sliding surfaces with graphite or fluoro-graphite paraffins."

2.4.1. Paraffin testing

To achieve the best gliding, it is very important to choose paraffin that suits today's weather conditions. This is done by testing paraffins. First, we determine the weather conditions, for which we evaluate:

• snow structure;
• snow moisture and pollution;
• snow temperature;
• humidity and air temperature.

For example, hard and sharp snowflakes need hard and abrasion-resistant wax. Wet and dirty snow requires paraffin that has good water-repellent properties, preferably fluoridated. For dry snow, paraffin with little or no fluorine is used. The choice of paraffin (testing) is carried out experimentally using skis directly or special pyramids (some call them blanks, others call them mice). First, we test the objects themselves (pyramids or skis). To do this, they all undergo the same preparation using the same paraffin. Then they are tested in relation to each other either by the time of passing the control segment, or by the length of the rollout on the test section, i.e. The model characteristics of each test product are determined. After this, paraffin from a set of those intended for use is applied to each object. After applying paraffin and appropriate processing, testing is carried out again. Having received the difference in the time of passage of the test section or in the length of the rollout and comparing the obtained data with the model characteristics of each tested object, we make simple mathematical calculations and determine the best paraffin. This paraffin is applied to the best “combat” skis of each individual racer.

You can also use a special Ekaterinburg-made machine for testing, which, based on the rotation speed of special plastic disks with paraffin applied to them on the snow, determines the sliding characteristics of each specific paraffin being tested. We, however, use the first (with pyramids) method.

2.5. Applying weather-appropriate base wax

For the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin by testing. For this purpose, we use several tetrahedral plastic bars, each face of which is like a small ski (each face has its own number, so after testing we can easily obtain information about which paraffin or powder glides best today). After testing, the paraffin we have chosen is melted onto the sliding surface of the ski using an iron. Allow to cool and cycle using a plastic cycle. Next, remove the remaining paraffin with a nylon brush. Then you need to sand it to a shine using either a sanding cloth or a softer brush.

When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if you use paraffin for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then you need to remove most of it with a plastic scraper before it hardens, because if you let the refractory paraffin cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski when scraping pieces, leaving large spaces of the ski without wax. After the ski has completely cooled, the remaining paraffin is removed with a hard plastic scraper and then with a hard nylon brush. Soft paraffins are processed in a similar way. The only difference is that the soft paraffin should be allowed to cool completely and then removed using a plastic scraper and a medium-hard nylon brush. Otherwise, the procedure for applying and removing paraffin is identical to that used when priming skis.

2.6. Applying the last layer: regular (loose) powder, or compressed (accelerator)

The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on the sliding surface, and then melted using an iron (correct melting of the powder is indicated by peculiar “dancing” sparks or stars that appear within one to two seconds after passing the iron). In this case, it is advisable to melt the powder or accelerator in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.
Many skiers use ordinary household irons to melt the powder (for example, the “Baby” iron is very popular). However, household irons have a sharp edge and if such an iron is moved along the ski, it begins to rake and throw powder off the sliding surface (branded irons usually have a crushing edge). Trying to avoid this effect, skiers make a very serious mistake - pressing the iron for a few seconds to one place on top with one-time movements, melting the powder to the ski. At the same time, they forget that household irons have different temperatures in the middle and at the edges of the sole. The result, as a rule, is deplorable - the same burnt mounds that we talked about above appear. However, they are not visible when you melt the powder. But as soon as you start cycling the skis later, you will immediately discover them.

TIP: “splurge” and buy a branded iron. The second solution to this problem is to take a file and grind down the edge of the sole of your iron so that one of the edges becomes hemming. In this case, you will be able to melt the powder in one smooth pass along the ski, without throwing it off the sliding surface and without burning it. It will be even better if on the side where, after processing with a file, a crushing edge appears on the iron, you cut several small (3-4 mm in length) grooves that disappear. Then, when the iron “runs” onto the powder, it will have somewhere to go: it will go into these grooves and will certainly then melt into the plastic, and not end up being thrown off the ski.

After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder using a natural brush (horsehair) and polished with polishing paper.

All! Your skis are ready to race.

TIP: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues, do not press hard on the ski: make gentle movements with light pressure on the brush.

Accelerators are the same powders, only in compressed form. They are more convenient to use - you can quickly rub your skis with them when you don’t have a table or machine at hand. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to keep your skis strictly horizontal, you don’t have to be afraid of the wind (which powder can easily blow off your skis if you are working in open areas, etc.), you don’t have to be afraid that someone will accidentally hit your ski , and the powder will be shaken off the ski.

The compressed (solid) powder is applied as a final, very thin layer to the sliding surface. The processing method can be either hot or cold. The hot method involves the use of an iron, but it is advisable to have a layer of non-woven material between the sole of the iron and the surface of the ski, i.e. heat through this non-woven material (for example, using polishing paper). Why is non-woven material used when warming up the accelerator? You and I already know that all accelerators (both solid and granular) contain fluoride compounds, and the layer between the iron and the accelerator itself prevents the volatilization of fluorine. True, it is impossible to melt loose powder through paper, so we can recommend the following method: we quickly melt the powder to the ski, and then heat it through the non-woven material.

In principle, it is advisable to lightly cycle the skis with a metal cycle after each use of the powder, followed by a mandatory primer. Why? Because the use of powder, or rather, high-temperature treatment of the surface of skis when applying powder, causes the appearance of a hard plastic film (this is a varying degree of burnout of the plastic). However, remember that very frequent scraping of skis will lead to the rapid removal of all sliding plastic with a change in the structure and rigidity of the skis. In a word, good ski care involves fairly frequent use of a metal scraper. However, this practice will certainly shorten the life of a given pair of skis - keep this in mind.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator) and rubbed by hand, with a natural cork or a special polishing plug. Then it is treated with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis using a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions over short (5-10-15 km) distances.

Preparing a last for classic skis

After applying the powder to the ends of the skis, be sure to remove the dust from the powder that inevitably gets onto the last when preparing the ends of the skis. To do this, use a metal scraper to clean the block from any remaining powders and paraffins, otherwise the ointment will come off the block very quickly. Then we lift the pile under the block with waterproof sandpaper, if necessary (for example, preparing skis for hard crystalline snow, firn, ice). Then we apply the priming ointment and only after that - the holding ointment.
Remember that when using liquid ointments, the last should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion to snow for liquid ointments is much higher compared to solid ones. On average, when using a liquid ointment, the last becomes shorter by 20 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only the last they make it shorter, but often switch to stiffer skis altogether. In addition, the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments is greatly influenced by the length of the distance - the longer it is, the more tired the athlete is, the more confident he needs to hold, which means a longer block. In this case, the block is shortened in comparison with solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

3. HOW TO CLEAN CLASSIC OINTMENTS FROM OINTMENTS?

1. Cover the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.
2. Heat with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.
3. Using a plastic cycle, remove this soaked paper. If necessary, repeat this procedure.
4. Remaining dirt is removed by washing.
5. Next, we proceed as described above, that is, we use paraffins.

3.2. Removers

When cleaning skate skis, washes are used if the surface of the skis is very dirty. With obligatory subsequent thorough cleaning with paraffin. In addition, for preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply a wash after using skis 5-6 times, even on very clean ski surfaces. In this case, it is advisable to use only branded removers. The use of other agents (gasoline, turpentine) has an adverse effect on the microstructure of the sliding surface, causing the appearance of whitish spots.

TIP: if you have to prepare skis in your apartment, use branded washes, for example, with an orange or lemon scent. This will save you from the inevitable conflicts with your wife or mother-in-law in such cases.

The most popular is skiing. To avoid problems while skiing and to make the movement comfortable, you need to take care of your equipment in advance. There are several options for special ski lubricants that need to be selected individually.

Why lubricate your skis?

This question arises among beginner skiers, since many consider this procedure unnecessary. During driving, a frictional force is created, which depends on the quality of the equipment and the condition of the snow. To reduce it, lubrication is carried out. There is another reason why wooden skis and equipment made from other materials should be lubricated, since the use of ointment prevents slipping back during the push. Thanks to the application of a special product, the middle part of the ski sticks well to the snow. With constant use of lubricants, the service life of equipment can be extended.

Which skis don't need lubrication?

There are different opinions regarding whether preparing equipment is mandatory. If we turn to the competent opinion of specialists, they, discussing whether it is necessary to lubricate skis, say that if you want to enjoy perfect gliding, then it is recommended to carry out a simple lubrication procedure before each walk. In addition, this will allow you to preserve the equipment for a long time.

How can you lubricate skis at home?

In stores and other points of sale you can find many different products designed for ski fans. If a person does not plan to engage in it seriously, then there will be no need to spend money on expensive formulations presented in the form of aerosols or branded paraffins. For those who are interested in how to lubricate their skis for better glide, a wide range of different ointments are offered.

Such products are presented in two types: for better glide and grip. Beginning athletes can use universal kits from well-known brands: Visti, Swix or Briko. All products are color coded according to the temperature at which they must be used. If the temperature is above zero, then liquid formulations are used. For negative values, the following classification applies:

• 0 to -2 – purple color;
• -2 to -8 – blue;
• -5 to -12 – light green;
• -10 to -25 – dark green;
• -15 to -30 – black.

When figuring out how to lubricate skis, you need to pay attention to common paraffins, which, according to their properties, are divided into options for sliding and securing. It is worth knowing how to lubricate your skis so that the snow does not stick in the absence of other means, you can use wax and paraffin from candles, but medical grade is better. There is a widespread belief among people that you can use soap, but in reality it will not do any good.

How to lubricate skis at home?

To care for your own equipment, you don’t need to turn to specialists, because, knowing some of the subtleties, you can carry out all the procedures yourself at home. For those interested in how to properly lubricate skis, you should know that it is important to consider not only the material from which the equipment is made, but also the style of intended riding.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

If such equipment was purchased, then it is necessary to apply lubricant to a clean and dry surface at room temperature. When understanding this, it is worth considering the basic rules:

1. When using a solid ointment, apply it in several layers, rubbing each of them. After this, leave everything to cool and apply the last layer outdoors.
2. It is recommended to carry out the test after walking a couple of kilometers, and if necessary, the product should be changed. Those who are interested in why plastic skis need to be lubricated should know that without this, the glide will not be as good.
3. For classic skating, it is customary to apply paraffin or gliding ointments, but only to the back or front, but the central area is lubricated with holding agents.
4. When using paraffin, it is applied in drops, leveling them with an iron. After this, it is cooled and removed with a scraper. Finally, treatment is carried out with a nylon brush.
5. There is another important topic - how to lubricate plastic skis with notches. Such equipment does not require lubrication, but over time the notches wear off and then paraffin should be applied.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis?

This type of equipment is made of wood, but a plastic plate is applied on top of the sliding surface, which protects against wear. In operation it is the same as for products made of plastic. For those who want to know how to lubricate skis so that there is no kickback, then you should use the recommendations described above for the plastic version.

How to properly lubricate wooden skis?

If you have equipment made of wood, it will be impossible to do without lubricating it, which is applied to a dry and clean surface. First you need to carry out priming, for which paraffin is used and it is better to take a candle-tablet. You need to rub harder, and then run a hot iron on top. Remove any excess that is not absorbed. This procedure should be carried out before each trip to the snow. Instructions on how to wax skis are as follows:

1. Lay the equipment downside down on a flat surface and clean them with a rag.
2. Hold the heated iron 2.5 cm above the skis and start processing from the edge. Apply a little wax to the iron itself until it melts and drips. Walk it over the entire surface.
3. At the bottom, perform back-and-forth movements with light pressure. The resulting layer of wax should harden, and then, using a scraper, remove it, moving from the highest point to the bottom.
4. An important step in the instructions on how to lubricate wooden skis is to treat the entire surface with a special brush, making only translational movements and applying slight pressure on the tool.
5. Skis should be taken out into the cold for several hours, and then left overnight at room temperature.

How to lubricate combination skis?

Some manufacturers have created special combination equipment that is suitable for both classic and free style. It is worth noting that you can find them on the market less and less often. To choose an easy way to lubricate your skis, you need to consider what running style will be used in a particular case. Processing schemes will be described below.

How to properly lubricate cross-country skis?

For amateur skiing, you can simply use special ointments that are selected depending on weather conditions. They should be 2-3 degrees higher than the outside temperature. Lubricate the pad area with ointment, applying 2-3 layers, rubbing each layer with light movements. Finally, it is recommended to leave the equipment for 10-15 minutes. cool down. After riding, using a scraper and rinsing, the remaining product must be removed. The diagram on how to lubricate cross-country skis with paraffin is more complex.

1. First they need to be mounted on a table or machine. At the first stage, the process of “hot” cleaning is carried out.
2. Using an iron heated to the minimum melting temperature of paraffin, smooth out the melted lubricant. It is important to avoid delays.
3. Without allowing the paraffin to harden, clean it using a scraper and a stiff brush. The final layer should be 0.5-1 mm.
4. After this, paraffin is applied taking into account weather conditions. The procedure is similar to the steps described above, and after removing the residue, the skis should cool for half an hour.
5. Using a scraper or nylon brush, remove remaining paraffin, bringing the surface to a shine.

How to lubricate skis for classic skiing?

Fans of this kind of skating should use slip and grip ointments. The first is usually applied to the sliding surface, and the second to the last (the area in the middle, which is determined from the heel of the shoe plus 15-20 cm). For those interested in how to lubricate skis, you should know the following information:

1. At the first stages of treatment, cleaning is carried out, and then a gliding ointment is applied.
2. After this, treat the block with a holder ointment, which must be selected based on the temperature and humidity of the snow.
3. If it’s warm, then use liquid products, and if it’s cold, then use solid ones. In the second case, a grinding plug is used.
4. It is important to consider that grip and glide ointments should not be mixed.
5. After applying the first layer, the product must be given time to set, and only then re-lubrication is carried out.
6. The preparation is completed by polishing with a nylon brush.
7. Another important point is how to lubricate skis with paraffin; it is applied only to the ends of the equipment.

How to lubricate skating skis?

Processing equipment for such riding is simpler, since only gliding ointments are used. Not for professionals, one layer of ointment, selected according to air temperature, will be enough. As in the previously described treatment schemes, the surface is cleaned. After this, you can proceed to the instructions, which concern how to properly lubricate skis at home:

1. First, heat the iron to the temperature indicated on the paraffin wax.
2. Place the block on the surface of the iron and move it so that the drops of paraffin are evenly distributed.
3. After this, run the iron from heel to toe to completely melt the wax. A uniform shine will indicate that everything was done correctly.
4. An important step in the instructions regarding how to lubricate skis with paraffin at home is to remove excess with a scraper after the layer has hardened. Move against the direction of the ride. Finish the procedure with polishing.

How to lubricate skis?

Before going out into the snow, it is necessary to hot-treat the equipment, which will help fill the pores. The procedure for lubricating skis is similar to the options described above. First, dirt and existing unevenness are removed. Be sure to lubricate everything with a degreasing compound. At the next stage, apply the blue ointment hot, and then, after it hardens, remove excess with a scraper. You can also use liquid ointments that are spread with a sponge.

First, a few words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated sliding lubricants, usually with paraffins, and the central part of the ski (block) lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the last by another 10-15 cm to the tip of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised to smear the back (!!!) of their skis to avoid recoil.)

Skating skis are lubricated along their entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of tools and, most importantly, the time spent preparing skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you have read materials from Swix or other companies on preparing skis, you can estimate how much time it will take minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weathering paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, at least half an hour you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional “pleasures” - the smell (though not strong), scraping off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, that's the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I were preparing skis at his house, we rolled up the rug, then, of course, we put everything away, but some remnants of paraffin apparently remained on the floor, and the rug began to slide wildly... I remember the kind words of his wife... In short, we need space where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be spread throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, your family loses all desire to ride. This is only for diehard fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options that are cheap and have good results; they will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin’s article “How to prepare skis?” from the magazine "Ski Racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from the Fisher store.

Ski slip ointments

Sliding lubricants come in different types. Paraffins are most often used, and in professional sports they also use accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not buy expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather... In professional lubricants, this is solved by rolling out paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice have no need.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.

Among the inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you just fine. (These lubricants are rolled out in the Moscow region, and they work well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and works well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small fluorine content) for three temperature ranges. It’s also worth taking tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have No. 238 for sunny weather for temperatures -9+5, lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which it is really good, but it will also go in cloudy weather, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once you apply it cold, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but is spent very economically - it will last for many years.

For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Apply to the sliding surface using a cotton swab or spray, dry or heat with a hairdryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, lasts up to 10-15 km.

Ski holding ointments

Holding ointments come in solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must satisfy two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski “sticks” to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, allowing the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow him to glide on one ski and “brake” only at the moment of push. Therefore, selecting the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternating layers of different ointments, applying them in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques are used.

Amateurs can smear themselves easier. In order not to fool your head, I will give the simplest rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (fluorine-free) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put ointment, the lower limit of the temperature range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if it is now -5, then put the ointment -1+1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore its retention, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rub (the so-called “cork”) and a warmer ointment and colder than the one smeared at home. If you don't get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top; if it doesn't hold well, put a warmer one on top. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the block forward to the tip of the ski.) It takes a couple of minutes to get smeared, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly discover what works best for you.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment will be enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear yourself at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each layer with a cork.

Liquid ointments are more often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (this is difficult to do in the cold, better at home).

A klister may be needed for above-zero temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the case when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to damage the case. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are standing vertically, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after riding, it is better to immediately remove the klister using a remover (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).

At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

· Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

· Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

· The condition of the snow in and outside the ski track can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when exiting it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or other company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all sorts of tools and materials for the skis. This is really necessary for professional ski training. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (as the sliding surface is sometimes called), which is made of high-molecular sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be made from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And there is no point in buying expensive skis (see Steve Poulin’s article “Use your iron correctly”). A good ski iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.

New skis, regardless of whether you then use hot wax application or not, are still better to treat them the first time using an iron. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth on hand. If the paraffin suddenly begins to smoke, you can quickly lower the temperature of the iron sole by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron's thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to use a household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

· Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: place fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive facing up, and straighten the sandpaper with a ruler so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs or irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler into a semicircle on the sandpaper (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these angles to the groove of your skis so that you can then remove the wax from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles to suit different pairs. Look at branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of ​​what you should end up with.

· A nylon brush is used to remove remaining paraffin after it has been removed with a scraper. If you will use hot paraffin application, then a fairly stiff brush is necessary. To do this, I had to use household brushes such as “iron” or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. “Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats,” but you can also remove excess paraffin.

· Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual lint will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates that are approximately the same in appearance may not contain the same abrasive and only add lint. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy it... Probably not necessary.

· Fiberlene is a non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed; you can polish your skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.

· SWIX sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding classic ski lasts so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household sandpaper of the appropriate grain size will do. In general, you need to sand under the block if you are running more than 20-30 km or on ice.

· Swix T-89 razor scraper, used for removing lint - not needed by an amateur.

· Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be sanded. A cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And it’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a ski when scraping - your hand trembles and there’s a wave or a scratch. Amateurs don't need it.

· Knurling is used to apply a structure to a sliding surface. Amateurs don't need it. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.

· A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight deterioration in gliding by using warmer paraffin, then you don’t need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a frost gel or accelerator that is applied in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.

· The wash is used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off sliding paraffin if it is not possible to use hot ski cleaning. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - it just didn’t have to be cleaned.

· Rubbing (cork) is used to level out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Definitely needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be a place to store your skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to remove it from clothes without a solvent or remover. Good domestic cases cost from 200 rubles. Take a case for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski ties. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. Skis that are tied together are more difficult to get dirty on. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the bundle is between the sliding surfaces of the skis; they should not touch.

Rags. To treat your skis you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a remover, brush away the remaining paraffin after passing through the scraper and brushes, and so on. At worst, you can even polish your ski after applying paraffins with a rag without pressing hard.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a cover with skis on the glassed-in balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis sucked; it was good that they were inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying hot lubricants (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” from LS No.... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (I experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter one. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald yourself. Cover the ladle with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial treatment of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin must first be rubbed in a thick layer onto the sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with the sliding surface facing up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin like that, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools. Make several slow passes from the tip to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and get scalded. Therefore, for regular use, it is better to purchase a ski iron.

Another way. Paraffin can be applied by vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean your ski. If there is a clear layer of old wax on the ski, then lightly go through it with a plastic scraper and/or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). It doesn’t even have to be a completely continuous layer. Then take the cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat generated is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the tail of the ski. The time required is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine required. On regular snow it will last at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Simulated with a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins using the cold method.

What ski waxes to buy for ski preparation

Depending on your level of training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lube that are sufficient for riding.

Minimum.

Solid holding ointment

This set will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil or slipping. It is not at all necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and lubricate the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no kickback. For walking, believe me, this is quite enough; the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment, covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing.

Synthetic cork

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded cleaner (about 300 rubles). However, the scraper and its substitutes were written above. You can do without a wash. Either without it at all, that is, removing the old ointment with a scraper, or replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (You can clean your skis, which, in general, is completely optional, with a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main “everyday” advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong odor.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go out on the ski slopes at above-zero temperatures, because at above-zero temperatures you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

Liquid holding ointment

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This set is enough not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also for participation in most mass ski races such as “Russian Ski Track”. It includes the same as the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a can of remover, a plastic scraper, and a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more significant amount - from 3,000 rubles. It is highly advisable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very well, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from scraps of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and several pieces of iron and screws for securing the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and trained skier, so in many ways the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in L.S., from a coach or from some other sources. However, we present this list as well. To all of the above you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(this lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static tension from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and tablet-form pure fluorocarbons), knurls (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather conditions. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times over compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

Ski paraffin is necessary to improve the sliding moment. No matter what kind of skis we ski - classic or skating - without additional lubrication the skis will give too good grip on the snow. But good grip is only needed when the wheels are moving on asphalt. In order to develop speed on a snowy slope, it is better to have minimal grip on the surface. In the case of flat skiing, reducing friction helps to reduce the effort a person makes when moving.

What are paraffins

Paraffins are hydrocarbon mixtures formed as a by-product of petroleum refining. Paraffin compounds have different degrees of viscosity. There are:

• soft (liquid) paraffins that melt at room temperature;
• solid - melt when heated within 70 ° C;
• crystalline - turn into a liquid state at temperatures above 70 ° C.

Functionally, paraffins are, in most cases, lubricating, water-repellent substances. They are added to various mixtures to give the appropriate consistency and properties. For example, Vaseline is made from petroleum hydrocarbons.

Paraffins are used in technical lubricants. These substances have also found their use in skiing as agents that improve the gliding of skis and snowboards.

Ski wax

Ski waxes are traditionally divided into:

• lubricants for cold skiing at snow temperatures below -12 ° C;
• lubricants for skiing at snow temperatures of -12 ° C…-2 ° C;
• warm lubricants for snow temperatures above -2 ° C.

The key substance that provides better gliding at high temperatures is fluorine. The less fluorine, the more severe frost (and low humidity) the paraffin is designed for. Conversely, high fluoride greases are designed for mild and wet weather.

There are universal lubricants, the composition of which ensures good gliding on any snow. For example, TOKO Irox Fluoro spray, although low-fluoride, is designed for use in a wide temperature range 0 ° C…-30 ° C. In addition to fluorine, ski lubricants include: silicone, various salts, oxidized metals.

Using wax on plastic skis

It would seem that plastic is a well-gliding material without lubricants. Unlike, for example, traditional wooden skis, which, due to the low density of the material, provided better grip and, accordingly, rode worse.

The new skis actually glide great. But as you ride, microcracks appear on the sliding surface and edges. Ice and snow particles damage plastic. And although these changes are not noticeable to the human eye, under a microscope the surface of such a ski resembles a mountain landscape. Sliding properties deteriorate due to such a landscape.

In order to fill all these microdamages and restore the perfectly slippery surface of the ski, hydrocarbon lubricants are used.

Why choose liquid paraffins?

It should be noted right away that paraffins in liquid form do not have any advantages over solid waxes in terms of functionality. The purpose of all paraffin waxes is to impregnate the sliding surface of the ski. To ensure the most effective rolling, all waxes, including liquid ones, require heat treatment after application.

Liquid paraffins are available in 2 types:

1. liniment;
2. aerosol.

Paraffin in the form of a cream-ointment, in general, from the user’s point of view does not have any differences from solid types.

The aerosol form provides additional convenience in terms of application. True, part of the product is sprayed past, which is why the consumption of paraffin aerosols is always greater.

Application of liquid paraffins

To apply liquid paraffin, the ski must be clean and dry. Particles of dirt, water, ice that become clogged in the micropores of the sliding layer will not allow you to apply paraffin correctly.

With heat treatment

Waxing of skis with heat treatment, as a rule, is carried out during periods between skiing in home-garage conditions. This initially assumes that the skis have been cleaned and dried.

1. Heat the iron to 150 ° WITH.
2. Spray liquid paraffin onto the sliding layer of the ski. We keep in mind that different types of skis require different models of lubricant application. For skating skis, the entire sliding surface is lubricated. Classic skis are waxed, bypassing the central part.
3. Iron the ski from toe to heel.
4. Let the ski cool and dry at a temperature not lower than 0 ° C for at least 10 min.
5. We pass the layer with the applied lubricant with a brush.

As a result of these manipulations, heated paraffin penetrates the pores of the plastic, fills them, and the microscopic “landscape” of the sliding surface is leveled. The wax remaining on the surface is excess. We remove it with a brush.

Ideally, this cycle should be repeated up to 10 times. The fact is that brushing, in addition to removing the surface layer, also removes part of the “useful” paraffin that filled the microcracks. When we repeat waxing several times in a row, we better “compact” the uneven skis with paraffin, filling the unevenness and microcracks more efficiently.

No heat treatment

Often we do not have the opportunity to use an iron, we are limited in time, and we need to lubricate our skis because they glide poorly. Manufacturers of liquid paraffins offer the theoretical possibility of using their lubricants without heat treatment.

1. Drying the ski.
2. We clean the sliding layer with a brush to remove dust and dirt from the pores of the plastic.
3. Wipe and let dry a little.
4. Apply a SMALL layer of lubricant.
5. Let stand for 3-5 minutes.
6. We rub it with a cork, a pad or whatever we are used to using.
7. Let stand for 10 minutes.

If you still put too much lubricant, you should use a brush and remove the excess layer. However, lubricant manufacturers warn that with the cold method of applying paraffin, brushing at the final stage is not significant.

And if it does, it will last no more than 5 minutes. For proper cold lubrication it takes about 1 hour. It is advisable to have sun or some room for drying.

You should be aware that, even if all of the above conditions are met, cold waxing is always an emergency measure, which in its effectiveness can never be compared with the classic heat treatment option.

Cost of liquid paraffins

Paraffins in the form of ointments cost about $5 per 25 g. Sprays, especially high-fluoride ones, can cost up to $40 per 50 ml bottle.

The types of skis do not influence the choice of one or another wax. However, it should be remembered that, unlike skating, the sliding surface of classic skis requires lubrication with additional holding ointment. Since traditional skiing requires pushing off and, accordingly, requires better adhesion of the ski to the snow at the point of application of force, the holding ointment is applied to the center of the ski.