Preparing skis for classic skiing. Preparing skis for skating How to prepare new skis

Everyone involved in skiing will say with confidence that the success and comfort of the upcoming skiing will depend on the quality preparation of equipment for skiing. By renting sports equipment, you don’t have to worry about its complete readiness. However, when purchasing new skis, you will have to ensure high-quality movement on the snow yourself. Having learned the classics, you can ensure comfort while driving and prolong the operation of your attribute.

In order to prepare your equipment for the arrival, you should follow some tips. The most popular and effective method among amateur and professional skiers is to apply a wax-like hydrocarbon lubricant to the equipment. For the skating method of movement, the entire outer surface of the board should be waxed, ensuring the safety of the rental and cohesion with the snow.

1. Plastic. Spread cold on sports equipment.
2. Dense waxy material. It is applied to the sole of the instrument using melting and a special iron.

Ski Preparation Tools

For skating at home, you should start with preparing the necessary tools:

• ski iron with a special sole and the necessary temperature parameters;
• lubricating rack-profile for fixing sports equipment in a horizontal position;
• brush set;
• staple or other steel tool for leveling and smoothing.

Ski waxes

To lubricate the attribute, there are many creams and ointments, both imported and domestically produced. According to the composition of their basic formula, they are divided: homogeneous in chemical formula, obtained as a result of synthesis, and complex. You can smear them on the tool surface for sliding or cohesion:

• solid means used at temperatures from three degrees Celsius to forty-five degrees below zero;
• semi-dense substances used at -2 - +2 degrees.

After applying the products, when preparing the skis for skating, the attribute is taken outside to cool down at sub-zero temperatures.

Why lubricate your skis?

A device that allows a person to move freely through deep snow appeared long before the advent of our era. Moreover, to ski even on a well-paved ski track, the ancestors applied lubricant to their tools. It was: fat, lard, beeswax and even resin. These actions did not bring the desired effect.

Everything changed dramatically with the creation of special creams, sprays and wax-like carbon lubricants. Preparing a sports attribute for riding with the help of these substances ensures flexible movement.

Which skis don't need lubrication?

The budget sports tool, which is made of special dense foam, does not lubricate. After all, it is created using a special technology that provides excellent glide. Lubricants are not completely absorbed into the surface of such equipment, so it makes no sense to choose any product.

How to lubricate skis at home

Before applying grease, you should determine your intended riding style. It must be remembered that when applied, the agent for smooth movement should not come into contact with the adhesion agent.

How to lubricate plastic skis

Plastic attribute for lovers of driving in the snow is usually lubricated only with traction agents in the place where the shoes are fastened. This type of sports instrument itself has sliding functions, so it is coated only with ointments for good cohesion.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis

If the surface of the attribute is made of semi-plastic, then for temporary protection it also needs to be coated to avoid small cracks and chips.

How to properly lubricate wooden skis

When processing wooden equipment, it is necessary to clean and degrease the surface with a brush or stiff sponge. All procedures must take place strictly at a temperature of +17 - +25 degrees.

1. The adhesion ointment is applied in layers, followed by rubbing each layer. After this, the instrument is left to dry at a temperature of +8 - +10 degrees. Drying of the last layer should occur at a temperature of 0 - -10 degrees.
2. Next, paraffin is applied to the upper and lower parts of the equipment, and the holding agent is applied in the center. The substance is distributed on the board using a hot iron, where it is applied in advance. The device is carefully passed over the entire surface.
3. Using a scraper, excess hardened wax is neutralized.
4. Using a brushing set of special brushes, the material is polished.
5. Place in the cold for 3-5 hours, then store indoors.

How to lubricate combination skis

Combo equipment is designed for classic skating with the ability to switch to speed. Because of this, the attribute must be constantly smeared depending on the upcoming driving style. For classic skating, cohesion ointment should be applied under the board.

How to properly lubricate cross-country skis

To treat running equipment, you can use special creams or aerosols, selected according to the temperature outside the window.

It is difficult to treat instruments with hydrocarbon wax:

1. Having fixed the attribute on the profile, apply wax to the board with a heating device, smoothing the layer.
2. After scraping off the excess with a scraper, leave a layer of 1 millimeter.
3. Apply another layer of hydrocarbon wax.
4. Place in a cool place.

How to lubricate classic skis

Classic riders should use a smooth ride along with a grip, making sure they don't mix together.

The surface is cleaned followed by application of a slip agent. After this, the central part of the equipment is treated with grip cream. The actions are repeated again. The final procedure is to polish the boards.

How to lubricate skating skis

When processing equipment for skating walking techniques, only smooth movement is required. After uniform application of the wax-like substance, the excess is removed with a scraper and the boards are polished.

How to lubricate skis

After cleaning the surface of the sports instrument and sharpening the edges, seal all the cracks on the slide with a special candle or heat gun. Apply hydrocarbon wax using an iron, followed by scraping and polishing.

Important

Tips for newbies! It is quite difficult to apply lubricants for the first time, so you should seek help from a specialist.

Do not forget that the process of cleaning dirt and grease from the surface of the instrument is the most important. The success of the entire procedure will depend on the quality of its implementation.

Anyone who is seriously passionate about speed skiing knows how important timely care of equipment is. To achieve optimal glide, you need to be able to properly prepare your skis.

What factors determine the choice of lubricant?

In order for cross-country skis to be properly prepared, the following factors must be taken into account:

• Air temperature. Depending on what value the thermometer shows, manufacturers provide various types of ointments and paraffins. The most common color options for their packaging are:
  • Red - the ointment is designed for temperatures above 0˚ C,
  • Blue– ointment is used at low temperatures,
  • Violet— the lubricant is used in variable weather conditions.
• Snow grain structure. Achieving the best glide will be possible by applying a structure to the sliding surface of the skis that fully corresponds to the structure of the snow under certain weather conditions.

Equipment required for preparing skis

When preparing cross-country skis, the following devices are used:

Tables and machines. Used to secure and conveniently hold skis during processing. Their design may include clamps or special fastening “legs”.

Thermal devices. Necessary for heating ointments and paraffins. Usually special irons and hair dryers are used. It is not recommended to use household irons to heat up paraffins - their soles have too high a heating temperature and can lead to the risk of damage to the sliding surface of the skis.

Scrapers. Serve to remove layers of frozen paraffin from a sliding surface. The material of manufacture is plastic or plexiglass.

Cycles. Designed for removing damaged layers of plastic with a fleecy structure from the sliding surface of skis. Used mainly by professionals.

Brushes. With their help, the final finishing of skis is carried out after applying paraffins and lubricants. Rotary brushes (mounted on a rotating axis) can also be used. Use brass and bronze brushes to remove dirt and old paraffin from the surface. A steel brush is used to give the sliding surface the necessary microstructure. Nylon brushes, depending on their hardness, are used to remove old paraffin (the colder the weather, the harder the brush).

Paraffins, pastes, liquid lubricants. Used to impregnate the sliding surface of skis. They differ in the content of fluorine and various additives. The high fluorine content makes the price of paraffin high. For frosty weather, paraffins with a low fluorine content are used, and for warm and humid weather, high-fluoride paraffins are used. Pastes and aerosols, according to manufacturers, can be applied in any weather, but they are applicable for those skis that have already been treated with paraffin. Among the manufacturers of paraffins and lubricants, Swix, ToKo, Rode, Holmenkol, and domestic ones: Luch, MVIS, VISTI have proven themselves well.

Cross-country ski preparation technologies

Depending on the level of the skier and the style of movement (classic or skate), various methods of preparing skis are used. For the amateur level, treating skis with special ointments will be sufficient. For the classics, these will be holding ointments that provide good glide and reduce the “recoil” when pushing.

The rules for selecting ointments recommend taking into account weather conditions and paying attention to the lower temperature limit indicated on the packaging. It should be 2-3 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Apply ointment to the pad area in 2-3 layers, carefully rubbing each layer with light movements. It is best to do this indoors and allow the skis to cool for 10-15 minutes immediately before skiing. At the end of skating, the remaining ointment must be removed with a scraper and washed with a remover.

Paraffin treatment involves a more complex technology. A special table or machine is required. At the beginning of the preparation, a process of “hot” cleaning occurs, after which they begin to apply paraffin at a certain temperature.

The skis are fixed on a table or machine, a special iron is heated to the minimum melting temperature of paraffin. Molten lubricant is applied to the sliding surface and smoothed out quickly, avoiding delays. Before the paraffin has had time to cool, it is cleaned off using a scraper and a stiff metal brush. The recommended thickness of the molten paraffin layer should be from 0.5 to 1 mm.

When the cleaning stage is completed, they begin to apply paraffin “to suit the weather.” It is applied in the same way as cleaning paraffin, but after application, the skis are removed from the machine and allowed to cool for half an hour. During this time, the lubricant should penetrate deeply into the structure of the sliding surface. Then, using a scraper and a soft nylon brush, remove excess paraffin and bring the surface of the skis to a shine.

Applying paraffin to classic skis eliminates the need to treat the last area.

For a classic style, the front and back of the ski are lubricated with slip wax. And the center of the ski is lubricated with holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (pad) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the last up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

Application area holding ointments for a classic move.

In the skating style, the skis are lubricated along the entire length with gliding wax. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is skiing on weekends, then the cost of lubricants and time for preparing skis will be minimal. But if you are going to participate in competitions and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying it, removing it and then brushing it), applying several layers of weathering paraffin (you need to apply it, let it cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then remove it with a scraper , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not particularly strong. If you prepare your skis at home, there is a serious problem - wax contamination. They can ruin the floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. This type of training will appeal only to ardent skiing fans. Luckily, there are easier preparation options.

Sliding lubricants and paraffins.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use . These funds are not cheap and are used up quickly. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to waste money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is unlimited, but it makes no sense to buy it in large quantities.

If the climate where you intend to ride is humid, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluoridated gels, emulsions, and sprays. All you need to do is apply them to your skis using an applicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hairdryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are their considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski grip ointments.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it must allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the wax, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the layer of wax), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying multiple layers.

With ointment for amateurs, things are much simpler. There is one simple rule that works for negative temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment whose lower limit of the temperature range is three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you didn’t guess correctly with the ointment, and if the skis slow down too much, then apply a “colder” ointment on top; if they slide too much, apply a “warmer” ointment. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the tip of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will only take a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Don’t be afraid of experimenting with ointment; this is the fastest way to find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you lubricate your skis at home, it is recommended to remove the remnants of the old holding ointment before applying a new one. To remove old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each layer.

Ointments in a liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, then smooth it out with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be used at positive temperatures. But it has one unpleasant property - it gets the case very dirty. So after skiing, it is better to wrap your skis in plastic so as not to contaminate or damage the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to melt and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but may cause problems in certain conditions:

• Podlip. When the temperature moves above zero, an unpleasant phenomenon such as sticking may occur. This is the sticking of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball forms under the block.
• Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the ointment after a point, break down in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. This often happens when the temperature of the ointment is slightly higher than necessary.
• The snow conditions in and outside the ski track may differ, so problems may arise when exiting the ski track; the skis may slow down too much. This can also be observed when driving from the shade into the sun and vice versa.

Tools for preparing skis.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, skiing beginners may have the opinion that they need to purchase dozens of tools to prepare their skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for preparing your skis will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and remnants of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, regardless of whether you then subject them to hot wax application or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using a regular household iron, as there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible effect that will greatly worsen the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with plus-size soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. You need to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum at which the paraffin will melt, and begin to warm up the ski, smoothly moving the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This processing method is suitable if you do not intend to apply paraffin using an iron in the future.

Basic tools used when preparing skis:

1. , used to remove paraffin residue. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special curve to make it convenient to remove wax from the grooves of the ski.
2. . Used to remove paraffin residue after skiing with a scraper. If you plan to use hot paraffin application, then you definitely need this brush.
3. . Used to prepare new skis and to remove fluff left from the sanding machine on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not high.
4. . Non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
5. Sandpaper. Used for sanding ski lasts in a classic style so that the ointment will stick to it better in the future. Not necessary. Any fine grit sandpaper will be suitable for sanding.
6. Metal scraper. Used to remove old structure. An amateur won't need it. Cycling a ski requires a special machine and certain skills. But it’s very easy to ruin your skis with this device.
7. , which applies a new temperature structure to the sliding surface. For amateurs it is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.
8. . It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
9. . Used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.
10. . Used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best used for ointments, and cork rubbing is best for accelerating paraffins. A must-have tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the skier’s level of training, you can either go to our store or assemble your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking through the forest on plastic skis. You don't have to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate your skis under the block, rubbing it with a synthetic cork, so that there is no kickback. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one rubbing plug.

2) Sufficient. A set for complete and reasonable ski care. With its help you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: a minimal set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that is suitable for a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluoride, a set of paraffins with fluoride, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

Today we will talk about the need to care for new skis and what you should do with a ski after purchasing it. It is worth saying that the culture of manufacturing and preparing skis in modern European factories is extremely high. By purchasing and comparing modern equipment with those produced ten years ago, you can notice a strong difference in the quality of the final product. Today we will talk more about cross-country skiing in the racing and expert equipment segment.

For skis in this segment, the level of glide and speed performance are extremely important, which is why we buy fast racing skis. As noted earlier, the quality of modern equipment has greatly improved, and having purchased a new pair, you can unpack it and safely go to the track without any preparation. Or you can carry out a series of manipulations so that the ski reveals its full potential.

If you don’t have the time and tools to prepare your skis, you can take them to a ski service, where the skis will be prepared in the best possible way. Well, if you are a keen skier and like to do everything with your own hands, then we will give you a couple of tips on starting preparation.

Initial preparation of new skis

Almost all European manufacturers offer racing and expert skis with a protected sliding surface. This protection comes in two types:

1. Various protective films that protect the surface of the plastic from mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation.
2. Applying preservative paraffin to the surface of the slide, which protects against scratches and ultraviolet radiation, which also provides additional impregnation to the ski, which helps prevent the plastic from drying out.

The first thing to do before use is to remove the protective film from the ski, if any, and remove the preservation paraffin. Depending on the paraffin layer, it is removed with an acrylic scraper. Next, using a fine steel brush, you need to make several passes along the sliding surface of the skis in the direction of movement from toe to heel. Next, it is recommended to apply a special wash to the ski, passing on top with a soft nylon brush for deeper penetration of the wash into the sliding surface. For these purposes, it is recommended to have a separate brush in stock, which will only work with washes.

The ski should be left for 10 minutes, make 5 to 10 passes with a nylon brush with medium-hard bristles or a soft nylon brush in the direction of travel of the ski, remove the residue with fiberlene. This procedure will allow you to get rid of small particles after machine processing of skis on a machine for applying structures. After such treatment, a fairly large amount of microfibers of worn-out plastic remains on the sliding surface, which at first glance may seem ideal. These formations will deprive the ski of ideal gliding, creating excess friction.

We will talk about the importance and process of applying structures in this article.

There are several ways to remove lint.

1. Carefully, without much pressure (so as not to damage the applied structure), treat the sliding surface with a sharp metal scraper, and then with fibertex. Then carry out hot cleaning several times using low-melting paraffin, removed in a warm state.
2. Using fibertex made of thin nylon fibers and silicon carbide abrasive particles. To remove lint, movements of the fibertex sponge can be made in both directions. In order to lift more fibers for subsequent removal with fibertex, it is worth going over the sliding surface with a bronze brush several times from the heel to the toe of the ski. Finish the process with several passes of Fibertex T266, which contains a softer abrasive. Then you need to use a wash, finish cleaning with fiberlen and several passes with a soft nylon brush as the ski moves from tip to tail.

After these procedures, the skis are ready to apply basic soft-melting paraffin in several layers.

The final fine-tuning of the skis after basic and temperature preparation will take place on the track; the skis need to travel several tens of kilometers before they show their best glide. You will notice that the level of gliding will improve each time.

Preparing skis with paraffins and gliding ointments

The modern sliding surface of skis is made of synthesized polyethylene of ultra-high molecular weight (High Performance Polyethylene - HPPE). Ski fabric is made by pressing crushed polyethylene particles under high pressure to form a crystal lattice with amorphous zones filled with lower-density polymers.

HPPE itself does not have a porous structure and does not absorb ski wax, but under the influence of high temperature the ointment penetrates into the amorphous zones and is retained there. From a chemical point of view, ski lubricant creates conditions for changing the hydrophobic, adhesive, chemical and electrostatic properties of the sliding surface by changing surface tension forces, and also provides its lubrication, thereby reducing the friction force.

Based on these data, manufacturers of skis and ski lubricants recommend preparing equipment before use, this will allow the skis to fully reveal their speed potential, and you will enjoy the time spent on the ski track.

The next important step after re-preservation treatment is impregnation of the skis with basic high-melting paraffin. For these purposes, weather-resistant paraffin with a low melting point is also suitable, but for new skis we recommend using basic impregnating paraffin, as it has a lower melting point and is less likely to burn out a new ski with an iron.

To prepare the skis, we will need a ski machine or profile, an iron for lubrication (a regular iron is not suitable for a number of reasons, there is an extremely high danger of overheating the ski core or burning the skid plate without even realizing it), a steel brush, a nylon brush with hard or soft bristles, acrylic scraper, groove scraper, fiberlen and, of course, the paraffins themselves.

Basic impregnating paraffin is applied hot to the sliding surface of the ski. We set the iron to the recommended melting temperature indicated on the packaging, and go over the ski with the iron in one pass, without stopping, from toe to heel.

On average, the iron passes from 7 to 10 seconds. If you make stops or move a hot iron over one place, you can overheat the sliding surface, which will significantly reduce the absorption of lubricant in this area. A long stop at a high temperature of the iron can lead to overheating of the ski core, which can lead to swelling or failure of the sliding surface or detachment of ski elements. After the pass, you need to let the ski cool for 10-15 minutes.

Excess paraffin is removed with an acrylic scraper. First of all, we need to remove the excess from the groove; if the scraper suddenly comes out and moves to the side, then the main sliding surface will be protected.

For further work, the main rectangular scraper is used. Such scrapers have different thicknesses: 3, 4, 5, 6 mm. If we have a 3 mm scraper, then we need to make sure that it does not bend during operation. The scraper must always be in a sharp state, thanks to this we cut off the paraffin, and do not squeeze it out of the sliding surface. This is an important point, since by squeezing out paraffin with pressure, we can quite seriously ruin the structure of the ski. We make a couple of passing movements on the ski without much effort from toe to heel. Next, using a steel brush, we make 5-6 passes from the toe to the heel of the ski without much effort.

Important: The steel brush should always be used in one direction only. If you don't have a steel brush, you'll need to use a brass brush.

You need to complete the cleaning with nylon brushes, first of medium hardness, then with soft bristles, 5-6 passes without pressure, from the tip of the ski towards the heel. Finally, wipe the surface with fiberlene and remove paraffin dust.

At this point, the impregnation of the base will be completed; either a cold or warm temperature layer is placed on top of the impregnating paraffin, depending on the purpose of the ski and the mode of operation. The procedure for applying weathering wax and removing excess wax is similar to the process described above.

The ski preparation procedure is completed. They are now ready to be waxed or waxed for weather specific purposes or to prepare the skis for racing use. After further manipulations with the lubricant, it is recommended to apply knurling; this need often arises when weather conditions do not fully correspond to the structure applied to the ski, but we will talk about this in the next article.

SKI PREPARATION

1. Factors influencing the choice of ointment.

Temperature.

Before you start preparing your skis for a race or just a walk, you need to take into account a number of factors - air (snow) temperature, air (snow) humidity, type of snow (grain).

Air temperature (snow)

Today you can find out the air temperature in a particular area without leaving your home, just open one or another weather informer. It is much more difficult with snow temperature; it must be measured directly on the ski track.

Usually, the air temperature is indicated on packages of paraffin (ointments). Snow temperature can also be useful. But remember that when the snow temperature has reached the freezing point (0 C), it will not rise further, regardless of the increase in air temperature. In this case, it is better to use the air temperature and pay attention to the water content in the snow.

Humidity.

Humidity is important more as a local climate trend and there is no need to measure it accurately. It is important to know if you are riding in a dry climate area, with an average humidity of 50%; in a normal climate zone with a humidity of 50% - 80% or in a humid climate from 80% to 100%.

Snow graininess.

To choose the right ointment, the type of snow crystals and the type of resulting surface are also important. Falling or very fresh snow that has just fallen is the most difficult situation for lubrication. Sharp crystals require an ointment that does not allow snow crystals to penetrate, but at higher temperatures it must also have water-repellent properties. Freshly poured snow at low temperatures especially requires synthetic paraffin additives. When the air temperature rises above 0 C, the temperature of the snow remains 0 C. The amount of water surrounding the snow crystals increases until the snow becomes saturated with water. In this case, highly water-repellent ointments and a deep structural pattern of the sliding surface are required.

2. Ski preparation tool

Tables and machines

First of all, to lubricate and process skis, we need a table of a convenient height, equipped with the necessary devices for work (electrical sockets, additional lighting, etc.). Tables can be either homemade or manufactured by other companies (for example, “SWIX”), stationary or portable, with a wide variety of designs and their modifications.

A machine is a device on which you can attach a ski so that it has support along its entire length. Machines can be, just like tables, homemade or “branded”. They can be very different in design (solid, collapsible, variable length, etc.). Usually they are attached to the table with clamps or have independent “legs”. The last option is designed for work in “field” conditions.

Thermal devices

The main purpose of thermal devices is to heat paraffins and ointments. Electric irons, heated irons, gas burners, and hair dryers are usually used. Preference is given to devices that do not use open flames and that can maintain a constant, controlled temperature for a long time. Of all existing thermal devices, the most used are:

electric irons - for melting paraffins and powders.

hair dryers - to melt the holding ointment applied under the ski block. If you use an iron for this purpose, you will only achieve that the ointment will “run” into the groove and onto the sides of the ski. Hair dryers, unlike irons, are much more suitable for melting ointment, since they allow it to be heated evenly.

gas burners - usually used in “field” conditions, where there is no access to the power supply.

Cycles, scrapers

Metal scrapers - used to level sliding surfaces and remove lint (the hardness of the steel from which the scraper is made and its thickness depend on how large a layer of plastic you need to remove).

Metal cycles are produced by various companies (“TOKO”, “SWIX”, etc.) or made to order from special grades of steel.

The soft metal makes it possible to sharpen cycles under normal, “field” conditions using special sharpening tools. Hard metal requires sharpening of scrapers only in the factory.

SCRAPERS MADE OF PLEXIGLASS, PLASTICS for processing the sliding surface after applying paraffins. Available in thicknesses of 3.4 and 5 mm. Thicker scrapers are designed to remove colder, and therefore harder, paraffin.

RAZORS are used to remove lint after mechanical and manual sanding (scraping) of skis.

GUTTER CLEANING SCRAPS come in different varieties. Nowadays, scrapers that resemble fountain pens are becoming increasingly common.

Brushes

Brushes are designed for final finishing of the sliding surface of skis. There are two types: conventional (for manual processing) and rotary (for mechanized processing using power tools).

For manual processing, several types of brushes are used:

metal (brass, bronze, steel)

nylon (hard, medium, soft)

natural (usually horsehair)

combined (brass-nylon, bronze-nylon, brass-natural, natural-nylon)

polishing (in the form of natural cork or a block with flannel).

For mechanized processing (in this case, electric or cordless drills are used as a drive), rotary brushes are used. They are placed on a special axis, one side of which serves as a handle for holding, and the other is mounted in the drill chuck.

In terms of the “bristle” materials used, rotary brushes are similar to the above-mentioned brushes for manual processing.

METAL BRUSHES

(except steel) are mainly used to clean the sliding surface and microstructure from old paraffin and dirt.

STEEL BRUSHES

It is usually used not so much for removing paraffin as for applying a fine microstructure to the sliding surface (depending on weather conditions).

Steel brush	Copper brush	Brass brush

NYLON BRUSHES

There are hard, medium and soft. Hard ones are used to remove harder (frost) paraffin, medium ones - to remove soft ones (intended for transitional and warm weather). Soft brushes are used for final polishing of sliding surfaces.

Nylon brush hard	Soft nylon brush	Medium nylon brush

NATURAL BRUSHES

used for removing soft paraffin and for treating surfaces after applying powders and accelerators to them.

POLISHING BRUSHES

are used in the dry (without the use of an iron) method of applying compressed and conventional (loose) powders.

TIP: It will be better if you use one specific brush for each type of powder. In other words, you should not treat plus and frost powder with the same brush.

Fiber porous fabric (fibertex)

Fibertex is a non-woven nylon fiber with or without abrasive microparticles.

HARD FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

used to remove lint after sanding the sliding surface.

SOFT FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

To remove the top very thin layer of the surface (in fact, a kind of smoothing) without changing the structure of the ski.

FIBERTEX WITHOUT ABRASIVE

used for polishing sliding surfaces.

3. Paraffins and holding ointments

Paraffins

Paraffins are the basis for caring for sliding surfaces. Most leading manufacturers have a line of paraffins that includes two or three types of ointment for different snow temperatures. In addition, paraffins may vary in the content of fluorine and other additives. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are more expensive, they are more “slippery”, but at the same time they are quickly wiped off the sliding surface. Additionally, all-weather ground waxes are produced - not particularly slippery, but cheap, they are mainly used to prepare skis for long-term storage and transportation. Paraffins are usually made in different colors for different snow temperatures. Typically, yellow is used for warmer snow, red for colder snow, and blue for the coldest of waxes. Ground paraffin is usually white, like regular medical paraffin. Applying paraffin is a separate topic, and will be discussed below.

Pastes and aerosols

Fluoride pastes and aerosols are generally “all-weather.” The manufacturer claims that they glide well on snow of any temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Snow is a complex structure. There are combinations of its temperature and crystal size when no ointments help. But in most cases, applying fluoride paste to an insufficiently “slippery” ski helps to correct the situation to one degree or another. However, there are several limitations when using pastes. Firstly, to apply the paste, the sliding surface of the ski must first be waxed, otherwise the paste will be instantly erased. And secondly, the paste is wiped off quite quickly even from a waxed sliding surface. But since the paste is a cold-applied product, it can be renewed right on the slope without any problems. As a rule, the tube of paste is equipped with a sponge. Having evenly distributed the ointment over the sliding surface of the ski, you need to wait for it to dry (usually a few minutes, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), and then polish the surface.

Accelerators

Despite the fact that the name of this category of means for preparing a sliding surface is extremely “unscientific,” accelerators are a rather interesting thing, although useless for the average user. These very “slippery” things are available in the form of solid briquettes (tablets) and in the form of powders. Accelerators, as a rule, contain fluorine compounds and graphite, which have an antistatic effect. Why are they useless for the average skier? The fact is that you can feel the presence of an accelerator only on a well-prepared track, while mastering the technique with great precision, minimizing extraneous slipping and braking. In addition, accelerators are wiped off very quickly - they are often applied right before the start, on previously prepared skis. The sliding surface (necessarily treated with high-fluoride paraffin) is evenly rubbed with an accelerator briquette, then vigorously polished with a special block resembling a cork. The sliding surface of the ski is evenly sprinkled with a powder accelerator, then burned with an iron, and then polished.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

Cleaning can be done in two ways - using a special liquid remover or using ground (low fluoride) paraffin. With the wash, everything is simple - you need to wet a non-woven rag with liquid, and then thoroughly wipe the sliding surface with it. Hot cleaning is a little trickier. Paraffin is applied to the ski, and when it cools, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper. You will see that the paraffin you scrape off is saturated with dirt. After scraping, thoroughly treat the sliding surface with a nylon or bronze brush. Repeat the procedure if necessary. And then, for greater effect, you can wipe the ski with wash. Do not use solvents to remove contaminants from the sliding surface, as they dry it out.

4. Ski preparation process (classic and skate)

The need to lubricate skis is determined in an obvious way. If they glide poorly, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it feels like someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it’s time to think about lubrication.

Let's start with the fact that according to the “rules,” skis must be prepared for each ski trip, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis slid well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, the snow) have changed, this is a sure sign that you should remember what you coated your skis with yesterday and make adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating your skis with good paraffin, you can safely ski for 15-20 km, usually that is how long the paraffin lasts on the sliding surface of the skis.

Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks as if it is “dried up”, covered with some kind of white “patina”. In fact, these are microvilli protruding from the sliding surface of the skis, torn by snow crystals. Such a “pattern” is an excellent reason to wax your skis, but try to prevent its appearance, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface is initially white and then begins to turn gray (currently, skis with a white sliding surface are practically not produced, as it was already noted earlier that the sliding surface contains components such as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb paraffin, especially when applied hot, and help to retain it longer. But dirt penetrates into these same pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, you should clean the sliding surface by removing old contaminated paraffin. In addition, a so-called structure - microscopic grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, and the pitch and depth of its grooves is determined by the condition of the snow, namely the size of its crystals.

And now more details.

4.1.Preparation of classic skis

Clear the holding area.

To clean classic skis from old ointment, both the “hot” and “cold” methods can be used. In the first case:

1. Cover the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.

2. Heat with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.

3. Using a plastic cycle, remove this soaked paper. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

4. Remove any remaining dirt using a remover.

In the second case, the old holding ointment is removed with a plastic scraper and wash.

Particular difficulties arise when removing “old” (after long-term storage of skis) ointment; in this case, it may be necessary to use all methods of removing ointment.

Paraffin can also be used to cleanse old holding ointment. It is necessary to wax the area of ​​the ski on which the old ointment is located and before the paraffin has time to completely harden, remove it with a scraper along with the old ointment. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times.

Preparing a last for classic skis

First, you need to decide on the holding area (more on this in the selection of equipment section).

For better grip and retention of the grip ointment on the surface of the ski, today it is customary to “raise the pile” in the grip area. To do this, it is necessary to treat the holding area with fine-grain sandpaper, for example P100.

To improve gliding, skis for a “classic” stroke must be treated in the same way as skis for a “skate” stroke, with only one exception: in the holding area they are not waxed, so as not to worsen the adhesion of the ointment to the surface of the ski. Well, if you don’t have time, you can do without preparation for sliding and go straight to preparation for holding.

The ointment goes on more evenly if applied cold, and if applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to grind the ointment on a profile machine.

Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat created by friction, but if there is too much heat, the ointment will begin to stretch, resulting in lumps and gaps.

Remember that when using liquid ointments, the shoe must be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion to snow for liquid ointments is much higher compared to solid ones. On average, when using liquid ointment, the last becomes shorter by 15 cm. When switching to liquid ointments, many skiers not only make the last shorter, but often switch to stiffer skis altogether. In addition, the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments is greatly influenced by the length of the distance - the longer it is, the more tired the athlete is, the more confident he needs to hold, which means a longer block. In this case, the block is shortened in comparison with solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Holding block for solid ointment

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

4.2. Preparing skate skis

Before you start preparing your skate skis, try to remember and follow simple rules during the preparation process.

Spend a little money on a good wax iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating. Most recreational skiers use a household iron, setting the temperature somewhere around... “cotton”, “silk” or “synthetic”. This is unacceptable... Household irons have a thin “sole” that quickly heats up and also cools down quickly, and when preparing skis, it is necessary that the temperature of the iron be set for as long as possible. When setting the temperature on a household iron, you can only guess it, but when using a special iron, its thermostat has an indicator of the desired temperature; most professional irons today are produced with electronic thermostats that help more accurately control the temperature.

THIS IS HOW YOU SHOULD USE AN IRON

Once the iron reaches the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which wax begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the tip in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again from the tip of the ski. Repeat the process 3-4 times. This process ensures the correct time is spent warming up the ski and there is little chance of the base overheating.

Applying paraffin is the most important moment in the proper preparation of skis.

Simple facts:

. Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to the appearance of a “cluttered” base.

. Old dry bases do not absorb paraffin, especially fluoride, well.

. A poorly processed base loses its applied structure faster.

. The speed of your racing wax depends greatly on the condition of the skis before waxing.

. Ultimately, overheating can reduce the effectiveness and performance of all waxes, especially those containing 100% fluoride.

Ski priming

Apply primer paraffin. In this case, it is advisable to use paraffin in excess, warming the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin to the extent that it is absorbed into the surface.

Cool the skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times, thoroughly cleaning it with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer we should create a shiny layer on the surface.

If the weather conditions require that the skis have structure and the skis do not have a factory steinlift, the appropriate structure must be made by hand. The structure is always applied before the main wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in the last hour before the start the temperature and humidity change sharply. In this case, the structure must be applied after the main paraffin.

When priming the sliding surface under the base paraffin, remember:

The melting point of the paraffin used for priming must be higher than the melting point of the base paraffin, i.e. the primer paraffin should be more refractory (in this case, the main paraffin does not mix with the primer). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory, solid paraffin is used as the main paraffin, and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main paraffin.

With very old, hard, “aggressive” snow, if the weather remains the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and simply to remove electrostatic stress from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use paraffin - “antistatic” (for example, “START” - antistatic or “REX” - antistatic, etc.)

When priming skis in appropriate weather, you should use regular paraffin for regular paraffin, and fluoride for fluorine-containing paraffin.

Applying basic paraffin (weather appropriate)

We select the most suitable paraffin for the appropriate weather. After selecting the appropriate wax, apply it to the skiing surface by melting the wax block on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of molten hot wax. After the paraffin has cooled, remove excess wax using a plastic scraper. Next, use a nylon brush (hard) to remove the remaining paraffin. Then you need to sand it to a shine using a softer brush.

When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if you use paraffin for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then you need to remove most of it before it hardens, because if you let the refractory paraffin cool completely, it will become hard and, when sanding, will chip off the ski in pieces, leaving large spaces of the ski without wax. After the ski has completely cooled, the remaining paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper and then with a stiff nylon brush.

Applying the last layer - accelerator

The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on the sliding surface, and then melted using an iron (correct melting of the powder is indicated by peculiar “dancing” sparks or stars that appear within one to two seconds after passing the iron). In this case, it is advisable to melt the powder in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.

After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder using a natural brush (horsehair) and polished.

TIP: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues (accelerator), do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with light pressure on the brush.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator) and rubbed by hand, with a natural cork or a special polishing plug. Then it is treated with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis using a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions over short (5-10 km) distances.